More than a century on from Ballarat's boom years, a horse-drawn coach wouldn’t look too out of place amidst the multiplying pilates studios and boutiques on Lydiard Street.
It's easy to imagine Ballaratians spilling out of Her Maj and hiding under their top hats while waiting for the 1880s version of midnight kebabs.
Any casual day-tripper can tell Ballarat was a wealthy city in its gold rush heyday (a place of changing fortunes, for better or worse).
Those who take the time to look beyond the grand facades will discover the city’s dogged creativity and ambition.
The chefs, the artists, the truffle farmers, yes… even the armourers – they're riffing off the past and spinning it into something new and wonderful. Yes, still rich, just in a different way.
From luxe stays to slow fashion, there's plenty of ‘ah, wow!’ moments that make Ballarat far more than a city seemingly stuck in time.
Got an anniversary coming up? Just want to enjoy the finer side of life? Here’s how to spoil yourself over three indulgent days in Ballarat.
Sure, this isn't the most thrifty itinerary, but it is packed with brilliant moments that will change how you think about regional Victoria.
Friday
Set the tone for your travels with a calming facial or a dip in the heated hydrotherapy pool at the award-winning Ballarat's Sanctuary Day Spa.
Lunch at The Shared Table
Chef Dianne Ray’s dine without decision menu allows this popular Buninyong restaurant to stay seasonal and, most importantly, local.
There’s also à la carte offerings and a popular pub classics menu (a genius move covering for the local corner hotel while it undergoes renovations – though now we’ve experienced The Shared Table's proper fish and chips, a high benchmark has been set).
While away the afternoon with some retail therapy.
Stop by Campana’s for local drops, brews and produce, or sample straight from the source at Eastern Peake Vineyard, only a 25-minute drive northwest of Ballarat.
Dress to impress with a finely woven sweater from Creswick Woollen Mill or order some handmade bespoke leather boots from Wootten.
Discover local indigenous art at Perridak Arts and clever gifts from the Art Gallery of Ballarat (the gallery itself will be temporarily closing for some major upgrades in 2025 but, in the meantime, its curated gift shop will pop up at 50 Lydiard St Nth from 3 March).
Dinner at hatted modern Asian restaurant Mr Jones
An acclaimed fine dining experience with matched wines, Mr Jones offers a banquet menu on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights.
The man behind the name – chef and owner Damien Jones – brings together his experience from London's Michelin-starred Nahm plus his former hatted restaurant, Ballarat's Catfish Thai.
Menus change weekly and forward bookings are essential.
Saturday
Brunch at Black Cat Truffles by Liam Downes
A short drive from Ballarat, this truffière and onsite restaurant has the distinction of being one of the few truffle farms in Australia to enjoy both a summer and winter harvest.
With a talented chef at the helm, there’s a truffle-infused menu on offer all year round.
Choose from a Friday à la carte lunch, Saturday and Sunday brunch, or quite literally dig in with a truffle hunt experience.
On the seasonal hunts, you’ll explore the beautiful farm at Wattle Flat with the help of truffle-sniffing dogs, followed by a degustation or delectable grazing platter.
And, of course, there’ll be warm local cider or sparkling wine, depending on the season of your visit.
Follow up with some more green respite at the Garden of St Erth (Blackwood), Lambley Nursery and Gardens (Ascot) or the Ballarat Botanical Gardens alongside Lake Wendouree.
If you’d prefer to hit Ballarat's cultural highlights, book yourself into a weekend workshop at the Australian Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades.
Over one or two days, learn everything from armoury to embroidery while helping to preserve endangered art forms.
The Rare Trades Centre shares space with Sovereign Hill’s Australian Centre for Gold Rush Collections, with themed back-of-house tours available on select dates.
Her Majesty’s Theatre is the perfect centrepiece for a great night out in Ballarat.
First opening her doors in 1875, Her Maj (as she is known locally) is the oldest continually used performance space in Australia.
Sitting pretty opposite the grand Craig’s Royal Hotel, the recently renovated double balcony theatre is in the heart of Lydiard Street.
From contemporary dance to symphony orchestras, household names to musical theatre, this historic stage has seen it all.
After the show, head to beloved wine bar Eleanora, art deco-inspired Sip Champagne Bar or bistro-esque discotheque Renard.
And if you’re not the artsy type, treat your tastebuds to a leisurely degustation dinner at Peasant, Underbar or Babae.
Sunday
Breakfast at Eclectic Tastes
Pairing perfectly with a morning lake walk, Eclectic Tastes has an elevated breakfast menu as well as a pantry full of local treats to takeaway.
History buffs keen to explore more secrets of the city can join a Hidden Lanes slow travel walking tour.
You’ll be guided through quaint laneways, unique local shops and historical tales as you unearth the hidden side of Ballarat.
A great way to collect some quirky anecdotes for your next dinner party.
Speaking of local secrets, why not take a side trip to the Pyrenees Ranges, a largely undiscovered wine region that specialises in bold reds.
Woodfired pizzas can be found at Wayward Winery, only 25 minutes’ drive from Ballarat, but you could easily spend a whole day (or weekend) exploring the region, which is home to more than 25 vineyards.
If you’re visiting Ballarat to celebrate a milestone or anniversary, make Sunday afternoon extra special with G&Tea at Grainery Lane.
Tuck into tiered bites and enjoy free-flowing gin cocktails across a three-hour afternoon sitting in a plush Prohibition-style bar.
Dinner at Lola followed by drinks at Itinerant Spirits
Those who’ve yet to have their fill of Ballarat’s food scene should head over to Lola for modern European fare before closing out their evening across the road at luxe distillery Itinerant Spirits.
How to travel in style
Silver Mink Tours offers chauffeur-driven tours of Ballarat and the Pyrenees in a vintage Rolls Royce.
Build your own itinerary with including stops such as Black Cat Truffles, Captains Creek Vineyard, Mrs Baker’s Still House, Dalwhinnie and more.
Steamrail Victoria offers steam-hauled Eureka Express services between Melbourne and Ballarat on select dates throughout the year.
We highly recommend jumping on board the choo-choo during the Ballarat Heritage Festival in May. During the festival, there's also shorter steam shuttles out to the former Lal Lal Station.
Where to stay
Centrally-located heritage stays in Ballarat include Hotel Vera, Craig's Royal Hotel and The Provincial Hotel.
For countryside escapes within easy driving distance of Ballarat, consider the cottage at National-Trust listed Mt Mitchell Estate, RACV Goldfields Resort Creswick, and the Heritage Rural Retreat at Mooramong Estate. The latter also features a tiny home with a bathtub on the veranda.
